“There are not too many opportunities in this complicated fashion world, but in terms of region, there is nothing more opportunities than here.” Designer Damir Doma accepted the “Curiosity Daily (www.qdaily.com)” last year.During the interview, I said.
As in previous years, we saw enthusiasm and contradictions in Shanghai Fashion Week.
The most conspicuous is e -commerce.For the first time, Tmall appeared in the posture of official strategic partners. It cooperated with Labelhood, the independent designer exhibition area, and four “to watch” show.JD.com, who participated in Fashion Week for three consecutive years, has not made a lot of momentum, but also found three static exhibitions in Aunn Cafe in Jing’an Temple in Aunn Cafe in Jing’an Temple.Temple rented two square venues at OntimeShow, which was located in the West Coast Art Center and two years ago as the MODE branch venue, and announced that it would launch the Ontime designer channel and invite more than 200 emerging designers to settle in.
Finding young business brands is also a big genre, and most of them choose to cooperate with young designers.To commemorate the 90th anniversary of its establishment, Disney released 15 independent designers such as Wang Haizhen, Ban Xiaoxue, C.J.YAO, including Wang Haizhen, Ban Xiaoxue, and C.J.YAO on the first day of Fashion Week.Last year, Disney just opened the second domestic store in Xingye Taikoo Hui.
The Disney designer cooperation series is the exhibition of The House in Shanghai Xintiandi Xinli. The picture comes from @China.
Shanghai Fashion made a promise of “becoming the largest order season in Asia” on Monday.In order to cooperate with the buyers’ international procurement time, this season’s fashion week has been a week earlier than ever.However, the conflict with Easter may still affect the number of buyers who come to Shanghai.
The data provided by the organizing committee will continue to argue this point from the overall scale: within a week from March 28 to April 3, there are more than 100 shows released, which is doubled two years ago;The traffic reached 11,843, an increase of 18.7%over the previous quarter; the number of buyers of professional channels was 3,120, an increase of 11%over the previous quarter.This exhibition area has finally signed a ten -year lease with the World Trade Mall, and no longer has to worry about the venue frequently.
However, most international buyers have finished the budget at the four major fashion weeks.When they come to Shanghai, their comments are often “surprised by the innovation and vitality of Chinese design.”Although they may still place orders directly in Showroom overseas in Chinese designers, they are more interested in how to enter the Chinese market than bringing Chinese brands overseas.
Jackie Kim, Deputy Director of Barneys New York Fashion, did not forget to mention Barneys New York just on Tmall in an interview. “I am very interested in the Chinese market.What are the preferences of Chinese consumers and which brands do you like to use? “
Dior moved the Spring / Summer 2018 high -definition series from Paris to Shanghai the next day, and went again on Weibo and broadcast live on Weibo.The artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri also attended the scene in person, designed a new work with twelve models inspired by red and pink as the main color and “Chinese folding fan”.A black -and -white checkered hand bag held by a model is printed with a large “stream”.
Dior 2018 spring and summer high, the picture comes from the brand Dior WeChat public account
For these young designers in China, more and more people have completed the first show of the 2018 autumn and winter series in the four major fashion weeks.There is still the ideal place to show the design and fight for buyers worldwide.Back in Shanghai, the purpose of the display is either returned to a more practical order, or a container used to display its own strength, or more like a fun experiment limited to small circles.There is a kind of carefulness behind: No one knows whether domestic buyers and consumers have matured to accept bold design, and where is the huge customer group defined as “consumption upgrade”.
There is no doubt that fashion business is in China.But whether fashion culture can be cultivated in a short time, no one can give a positive reply.
1. What is e -commerce competing for designer resources?
“Today Tmall can not only open a store for you and give you traffic. Whether it is integrating the supply chain resources, or let some talented designers have more exports, we can do these things.” Tmall Clothing Deputy General ManagerLu Jianmei said in a forum on Mode on March 29 about the new retail forum.These words sound like investment promotion.
Although Tmall said that 31% of the brands on Fashion Week have flagship stores on their platforms, the most noticeable designer resources are still scattered on three different e -commerce platforms this time.XU ZHI and Haizhen Wang cooperated with JD.com; Angel Chen, The Lawn, Yirantian, Wangbing Huang chose Tmall; and Chen Pang walked again on the New York Fashion Week show in cooperation with Temu.
XU ZHI static exhibition poster, saying “Chief Partner: JD Fashion”
E -commerce’s competition for Chinese designer resources begins with their competing for luxury goods.The first to be invested was JD.com.Three years ago, JD.com adjusted its organizational structure, and the clothing home business department became one of the four newly established four major business departments.In June last year, it announced the injection of FarFETCH and launched a plan called “JD (X) Fashion”, hoping to introduce high -end custom -made models with international well -known designer brands, tide brands, and high -end -brand -name with international first and second -tier big names.
In contrast, Tmall began to be later, but faster.In January of this year, Erding, president of Tmall Clothing Business Group, announced the launch of the “Designer DT Innovation Plan”, and cooperated with New York Fashion Week to host Tmall China Day in February.The display includes CHEN PENG, a independent designer brand for the retail market for North America.
Following the Fashion Week at the beginning of the new forces, Tmall may be regarded as a good time to attract more designer brands to settle in.In general, they did three things in Fashion Week as official partners: cooperate with MODE to analyze the hot -zone of people in the exhibition area, extract identity and behavioral data; cooperate with the Labelhood exhibition area, and do “seeI buy it. “
In addition, between March 30th and April 1st, enter “T Design” in Tmall’s search box. A page called “Tmall Design Week” will jump out.The designer brand has opened the flagship store in Tmall.The selection standard seems to be a bit vague: there are sketches of Jiangnan Buyi Group, which have been listed in Hong Kong, a dense fan that has just announced the completion of a round of financing in February this year, and some of the brand of Shanghai Cultural Company with 10 registered trademarks.Labelhood, a designer brand collection in October last year, Labelhood (formerly the pillar).
However, from the end result, the gimmicks of Tmall’s trials are more than reality.”Buying mobile phones and hot -zone analysis are only concentrated in a relatively small pilot, but preliminary tests, and there is no large -scale coverage of the exhibition area.” Zhang Jie, the person in charge of Mode, told the Curiosity Daily (www.qdaily.com).Essence
On the other hand, Labelhood’s live broadcast effects on Tmall flagship stores are also average, with an average number of viewers of 1,500.Because the machine is not switched, the models on the screen look far and blurred, and from time to time outside the screen.From the perspective of the sales of the store, the pre -sale funds of the four designers did not receive the order before the end of the fashion week.
Tmall may not intend to show the actual effect.Xie Wei (Luyou), the person in charge of Tmall Clothing Brand Marketing, was repeatedly mentioned the growth potential of the B2B business after being interviewed by the “Curiosity Daily (www.qdaily.com)” after the forum.”This time we are experimenting with a exhibition area. In fact, this technology and data can also be applied to all department stores to help them know more about the passenger flow … Cooperate with the fashion week and close their eyes. I think there is no new idea. The new idea isI can serve a single brand or a fashion week. “
This is nothing new.Farfetch’s “Future Store” proposed in March last year was to achieve the same goal -helping the brand open online and offline.YOOX Network, the world’s largest luxury e -commerce company, was the most watched last year’s B2B business “Online Flagship Stores”. Customers include Armani, Valentino, Isabel Marant, and Marni.Last year, the net revenue of the business department was 217.5 million euros, an increase of 5.9%year -on -year, accounting for 10.4%of the Group’s overall revenue; GMV increased by 20.8%year -on -year.
The goal of Tmall is to hatch five major brands in the field of designer clothing in one year.In the interview after the forum, Luyou quoted third -party data explanations that the current commercial scale of Chinese designers is less than 100 billion, but they believe that this is the result of the supply chain without sufficient integration.
“Originally, some brands said that there were 56,000 or six shop stores offline. The user is a nation. You can also sell it to Shanghai and sell it to Tibet. In this case, I believe that the industry in the future can do it in the futureTwo billion, turn over. “
Lu You also mentioned that Tmall set up a new product research center internally this year.They spent two years, hoping to accumulate the trend through data accumulation and provide guidance for design and production.The cooperative brands include Latharbeel and Yizhi Group.A recent research was to monitor the 64 popular colors released by Pan Tong on Taobao, and found that 8 of them have updated frequency in the market in the past three months.”You will find that the trend is not updated in half a year or a year under the current environment, but to shorten to one month or even a week.”
But this set of claims may ignore one point: the GMV and speed that fashion and e -commerce are good at talking are always two sets of logic.Supreme has been cultivated for 20 years before becoming a explosion, and the European fashion house has spent a long time from its establishment to large -scale.What’s more, the niche brand’s requirements for adjustment and the community, as well as their disadvantages in supply chain and pricing, have natural conflicts with the characteristics of cost -effectiveness, explosion -driven, and sales drive with the Volkswagen platform.
Designer brands are often the creators of diverse fashion, not followers of mainstream fashion.If you just look at sales, it is difficult to compare with the “Internet celebrity” Sydney.During the “New Power Week”, Taobao’s Red Sydney and Snoopy launched a joint series.According to the data provided by Tmall, 10 co -famous products have sold more than 80,000 pieces, and the sales volume of more than 20,000 new 30 minutes on a single explosion is more than 20,000.
2. What are the problems of the digitalization of the designer brand?
The development of designer brands in the domestic market will always encounter a paradox: consumers and buyers are mostly not mature enough, and the niche design of designers is difficult to quickly find the target audience.If the price is not reduced, it is impossible to attract more customer groups; but if you do not find more customers, you cannot force the supply chain to reduce the price.
Volkswagen e -commerce may accelerate the process of market cultivation through the manufacturing hallucinations to bring the needs and sales of the designer brand.The precise algorithm is another often mentioned word.Lu Jianmei (Menggu), deputy general manager of Tmall Clothing, mentioned “thousands of people and thousands of faces” on the forum of MODE.According to her, the direct access to “My Favorites” can account for 30% -40% of a shop.
But this process is also full of risks.One of the long -working parties, Justin, mentioned in the group interview after the same forum: “A new thing needs a collective way to speak on Tmall. ‘Thousands of people and thousands of faces’Things, but many times you have narrowed your attention. “
Other questions that are worth thinking include: Can the algorithms in Luyou really guide the design?And, even if e -commerce can manufacture a brand with annual sales of over 100 million yuan, what is different from the Internet celebrity brand. Can it be called a designer brand?
Yirantian 2018 AW
The buyer’s long -handed pillar and Labelhood, the independent designer exhibition area, launched their flagship store on Tmall on November 1 last year (now merged and renamed “Labelhood Lei Tiger”).A month.The WeChat store with a long -handed pillar has been operated for two or three years. The advantage is that it is completely closed and easy to control. The disadvantage is that it has to attract attention by itself, but the traffic is becoming more and more scattered.
The co -founder Tasha Liu changed his thoughts was BabyGhost and several cases given by Tmall.Babyghost designer Huang Jing told her at a sharing meeting in February this year that she opened the shop for seven years in Tmall. Most of her sales were completed online, and the trading volume was 110,000 last year.Tmall’s first reference case was FMCG P & G, which seemed a bit nonsense; but later brand cases about similar prices such as Maje and Sandro made Tasha think that it could try it.
“Some Tao brand designers themselves are also very serious about product innovation, and the price is good, but the originality is closely following the trend. But the consumer groups of these brands also need to be upgraded. It turned out that some Internet celebrities followed by Taobao decided to decide.What you wear, he may also hope to have different products in the next step. “
The flagship store first launched several designer brands with higher market -oriented willingness, with an average pricing of about 3,000 yuan.For example, Yirantian and Angel Chen: The former’s target customer base is white -collar female, with high consumption level and wide demand; the latter has a good brand image, and there are many exposure of market cooperation activities, which is highly recognized among young people.
So far for 5 months, the average monthly sales growth rate of the store has reached 100% -200%, but it only accounts for 10%of the physical stores.Liu Xinya currently summarizes three experiences: accessories are better than clothing -the highest sales in the store are UMA WANG, a ballet shoes priced at 5,000 yuan; CHEN PENG participated in New York Fashion Week “Tmall Day” to buy and sellThe best one is not the brand’s iconic down jacket, but a white sneakers priced at 3,000 yuan.
The average pricing of Tmall’s feedback also allows designers to recognize the problem of excessive pricing.Tmall’s general customer unit price is almost 1,000-2000 yuan, while the brands in the long -term Dongliangdian often reach 3,000-4000 yuan.
And, online store movements are completely different from physical stores.”I spent a lot of energy to make the homepage beautifully at first, but Tmall has its own set of rules. Consumers’ purchase path on it is not set as you want.Some traffic entrances given by Tmall and Taobao.
However, Liu Xinya also emphasized that in order to maintain the unity of the designer brand pricing, they are cautious about the activities of discounting or discount.
Zhang Da only opened the Taobao shop “No Boundless” this month, and a total of 327 fans have paid attention to the press time.Earlier, there was a micro -shop without edge, which recently used to clean up past inventory and sell lower pricing and more daily “daily use” series.
He does not exclude to open a store on the Volkswagen E -commerce platform, which can provide convenience for consumers in cities that buyers cannot touch.But how people use the results brought by technology requires more judgments, such as algorithm -driven design: “The advantage of technology entering fashion is democratization. Advanced fashion was once in a very nourishing position.The popularity is upside down but democratized a bad place is sediment.
This is why Zhang Da chose to open a Taobao shop instead of Tmall store.Several designers and friends in Tmall Shop are distressed by the provision of “seven days without reason”.”This has brought a lot of extra work to the merchant. After buying out the warehouse, you have to enter the warehouse again. Maybe it may be sold a lot this week, and it will return a lot next week. The turnover is difficult to count.”
Zhang Da believes that such regulations are too much to pet customers, and pet customers are pet traffic.
“Indulging in a person who is completely irresponsible to his behavior when making a decision. This is a method of a giant baby country only for the benefit in front of him. It does reduce the burden on online shopping online and attract more traffic for the platform.Many guests cultivate the habit of buying and returning goods at will under such sales conditions.
3. In what market performance is the best performance of buyers?
Cote & Ciel is one of the best brands of Paris high -end handbag brand and this time the Italian Showroom IgFD sells.There are more than 20 department stores to place orders, including department store buyers from Changsha, Wuhan, and Guiyang, with a total amount of 2 million euros.
IGFD accounts for 1,000 square meters in Mode’s booth this time, the largest in all Showroom.The logic of Gu Shixuan, the chairman of the IGFD board of directors, is that all international brands must be strong in China, and to shape the image of high -end brand, which often means a large booth.
Since Shanghai Fashion Week was held late, after the period of interception in Europe, Gu Shixuan only went to Mode for the exhibition to advertise three times the first three times, and did not receive orders.He quoted a sentence in “Consumption” to describe the earlier goals: “The brand needs to find a show off consumer. These people will affect people on the edge of consumption and have ripple effects.”
This time Mode tuned time, and IGFD also opened the order for the first time.Customers can enjoy the same prices as placing orders in Europe, plus follow -up services including size and color adjustment, production cycle arrangement, customs declaration, logistics, gold flow, etc.In order to attract scattered customers, Gu Shixuan adjusted the order to 10.He also summarized a set of experience that attracts Chinese buyers: the brand must have a certain reputation in Europe, and there are certain sales figures in Japan and South Korea to ensure that it already has a market in Asia;Between the domestic designer brands; in addition, the proportion of tide brands in this season accounts for 30% -40%.
But the performance of the buyers still surprised Gu Shixuan.Ordinary buyers will also have 200 pieces, and all scattered passengers add a total of more than 1 million euros.These buyers are more and more willing to spend time.”It turns out that domestic buyers are required to be delivered within 2 weeks. This is impossible for international brands. We need at least 6 months. This time, more than 10 buyers told me directly, I hope to increase it in the storeMore international brands “”
In addition, Gu Shixuan also believes that the demand for buyers in first- and second -tier cities is almost much different.Guiyang Xingli Group’s order exceeds 30 million yuan this time, and at the same time, Guiyang’s buyer store sales exceeded 100 million yuan a year.Because market competition is not as fierce as first -tier cities, their growth rate is higher than the latter.
Compared with Italy’s order of 150 million euros per season, the harvest of Shanghai Fashion Week is only zero for IGFD.But Gu Shixuan felt that the speed of this market came to promote the technological innovation of the Italian headquarters.
One of the most typical examples is that since the previous season, IGFD has become the only Showroom in Italy to connect customers to connect customers, using an APP management store port called “Moda Link”, monitoring sales figures and inventory.This app was developed by the Chinese team. “Because Chinese Showroom has done this, we must keep up.”
Feng Chen Wang 2018 AW
Men’s clothing brand FENG CHEN WANG agent Xiao Chen and Gu Shixuan have similar views.The brand has more overseas overseas in the first season than domestic orders. After that, overseas orders are similar to domestic.By the fifth season (spring and summer 2018), it is half higher than foreign countries.Xiao Chen believes that this is mainly because in the country, in addition to the big buyer shops such as Cardford, they focus on expanding high -end buyer stores in more other cities.One -third of the buyer’s replenishment volume is larger than the order volume.
Interestingly, even the replenishment reactions of Lian Carver and other large shops are not as fast as other folk buyers.For example, the greenhouses in Changsha, the polymer of Zhengzhou, and the Jun Shan of Wenzhou, etc., the replenishment is not necessarily the largest and relatively scattered, but from the official launch of FENG Chen Wang in spring and summer 2018Zhou will send at least once to contact with replenishment.
In order to adapt to the domestic market, FENG Chen WANG has experienced two rounds of price adjustment.The price of high -end line remained unchanged, and the medium price was reduced by 10%this season.Xiao Chen explained that more male customers and some high -end buyers are not sensitive to the price, but half of the customers think that if the price is more favorable, they can buy more.
In addition, although female consumers have more limited capacity, some non -first -tier cities women’s clothing shops are key customers in FENG Chen Wang because they understand design and can drive more VIP buying.
4. Is it really a tide brand to make young people fashion?
Since 2008, Wang Yiyang’s Zuczug has selected four sub -brands from the internal designer team, including environmentally friendly brand Klee Klee, sports brand AN KO RAU, women’s brand WHM, and EXTRA ONE.
Last year, Klee Klee and An Ko Rau opened independent stores in Anfu Road and Xingye Taikoohui, Shanghai.WHM and Extra One tried to order at Not Showroom and Tube Showroom, respectively.
WHM designer Wang Haoming and two designers of Extra One told “Curiosity Daily (www.qdaily.com)” that it will also open a brand gathering store named “PARK” this year to put these sub -brands in these sub -brands inIn a space.
Wang Yiyang’s business partner Huang Zhifeng said in an interview with BOF that the sense of crisis of brand transformation comes from “the post -80s have entered middle age, how can we find new guests.”
The more subdivided sub -brand and new retail methods are considered to be the main way to solve this problem.”From the perspective of data, a considerable proportion of guests who entered Anfu Road Street Store do not know it. This not only achieves the purpose of finding the new brand to find guests, but also verify our judgment.The new considerable consumer crowd … We also feel that through a more lifestyle brand, we can dig for customers who have not been excavated by the original channels and have higher price acceptance. “
WHM 2018 AW
Another topic that cannot be avoided when talking about youth is a tide brand.Two days before Fashion Week, LVMH Group just announced that Virgil Abloh, the founder of high-end street clothing brand OFF-White, will become the next artistic director of LV.
“Thirty years of reversing, luxury goods are not at all about this brand. But the high -end fashion has been micro, and the new consumption is mainly from China and the United States who rely on technology.In the tradition of wearing and using, the brand needs to have more traffic to bring traffic. “Zhang Da said.
Fashion e -commerce fans and Nielsen jointly released a market report in Mode, calling the tide brand “the fastest growing segment brand market in the world from 2011 to 2017”.In this market, 10% of the core user base contracted 48% of the market share; OFF-White and Supreme became the fastest and most popular tide cards in the past year.
The number given by Chinese cultural investor Wang Xi on another forum is that China’s trend consumer brand accounts for only 2-3%of the world, and the national tide is still in the initial stage. The general trend consumption is only 35 billion yuan.
The tide cards appearing at the Fashion Week are full of diverse brands. It is difficult to say, who is seriously wanting to make the plate of Guo Chao, who just wants to earn attention.From the perspective of at least the highest degree of attention, the manufacturing popularity is not the brand itself, but variety shows and stars.
Angel Chen invited several players in “Hip -hop” to play BATTLE on the show.Mishka, a New York tide brand who entered China in 2009, invited the rapper GAI to watch the show in the front row, and ended with “hot pot bottom”.
Although the stars are very effective in any group, as saying in Nielsen’s newspaper, it is the mainstream in China or the mid -range and the public.Mid -end customers are more concerned about what brands of stars wear, and Volkswagen Tide customers are more concerned about what the effects that are wearing on celebrities.If the overall effect is good after wearing the Internet celebrity, they may buy the same online celebrity.Yang Mi, Wu Yifan, Luhan, and Quan Zhilong are the most recognized “King”.
It sounds like it is not street culture or what the stars wear.
Title map is Motoguo
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